Buying guide

Which memory card does your camera need? A plain-English guide

Slow cards cause dropped recordings that look exactly like camera faults. Here is how to read the confusing symbols on an SD card and buy the right one once.

The single most common "camera fault" we hear about is a camera that stops recording partway through. Almost always, the camera is fine and the memory card is too slow. Card labelling is genuinely confusing, so here is what the symbols actually mean.

The only number that matters for video

Look for the V rating — a V in a box followed by a number. It guarantees a *minimum sustained* write speed in megabytes per second, which is exactly what video needs.

RatingGuaranteed writeGood for
V1010MB/sFull HD video
V3030MB/s4K video — the practical minimum
V6060MB/sHigh frame rate 4K, 6K, 10-bit
V9090MB/s8K, high bitrate, burst raw stills

Ignore the large "up to 170MB/s" printed on the front. That is peak read speed under ideal conditions — it tells you how fast you can copy files to a computer, not whether the card can keep up while recording.

UHS-I vs UHS-II

UHS-II cards have a second row of gold contacts and are considerably faster — but only in a camera built for them. Put a UHS-II card in a UHS-I camera and it works perfectly at UHS-I speeds, meaning you paid extra for nothing. Check your manual before spending.

What to buy for each camera type

  • Action cameras and 360 cameras — microSD, V30 minimum, and V60 or better for the highest resolution modes. High-endurance cards are worth it if the camera runs for long periods.
  • Mirrorless and DSLR — full-size SD, V30 for general use, V60 or V90 if you shoot burst raw or high-bitrate video.
  • Compacts and instant hybrids — almost any modern branded card is sufficient.

Practical habits worth adopting

  1. Format in the camera, not on a computer. It creates exactly the file structure the camera expects.
  2. Buy two medium cards rather than one large one. A card failure then costs you half a trip, not all of it.
  3. Replace cards every few years. Flash memory wears out, and a card that has been formatted hundreds of times owes you nothing.
  4. Buy from reputable sellers. Counterfeit cards that report a false capacity are common and fail silently.

Storage, briefly

4K footage consumes roughly a gigabyte every couple of minutes depending on bitrate. A 128GB card is a sensible default for a day of shooting; if your camera has internal storage — like the Osmo Action 5 Pro with 47GB built in — treat it as a backup for the day you forget the card entirely.

Frequently asked questions

What memory card do I need for 4K video?

Look for a V30 rating as a minimum. That guarantees a sustained write speed of 30MB/s, which is what continuous 4K recording demands. For high frame rate or 8K modes, aim for V60 or V90.

What does UHS-I and UHS-II mean?

They describe the card’s maximum interface speed. UHS-II cards have a second row of contacts and are much faster, but only if your camera supports them — in a UHS-I camera they work at UHS-I speeds, so the extra cost is wasted.

Why did my camera stop recording on its own?

Nine times out of ten, a card too slow to keep up with the video bitrate. The camera fills its buffer, cannot write fast enough, and stops. It looks like a camera fault and is a card problem.

Are cheap unbranded cards a false economy?

Usually. Counterfeit and overstated cards are common, and they fail by losing footage you cannot re-shoot. Buy known brands from reputable sellers — this is the wrong place to save £10.

More reviews